Live Like a Local in Dunedin
In the Southeast of the South Island of New Zealand, hardened to the cold, wind, and rain, exists a small coastal city named Dunedin (Ōtepoti). This city is most certainly off the tourist highway, but the coastal wildlife will leave you wondering why.
One of the country’s first cities, set up by pioneering Scots (Dun-Edin – the Edinburgh of the South), the rows of Victorian houses certainly bring Scotland to mind.
If you were to ask a New Zealander from outside Dunedin, you would very soon learn that it is mostly seen as a university city. Otago University is famous as the oldest university in New Zealand, with lovely historic architecture and a high standard of education. It is infamous for the street party culture created by thousands of 18-to-21-year-olds revelling in their first tastes of freedom.
In the student infested streets to the north of the city, you’ll find drafty old houses growing mould inside and out, each fitted with snazzy new heat pumps, as required by rental legislation. However, the homes themselves are still colder inside than out, as the four-to-eight students living there are hesitant to spend their party budget on something so frivolous as heating.
Heading south, you will find the Octagon. The heart of the city is home to historic buildings, funky street art, and a few interesting breweries and eateries. Dunedin’s centre is in its adolescence – it’s almost cool, and hidden gems take the form of cosy gin bars, music venues, cafes and ethnic food trucks.
The suburbs fanning out to the South and East are home to proper adults with their families and warm homes, affectionately tolerating the students to the North. Then, all of a sudden, there’s the coast.
Dunedin’s beaches are something special. Year-round wetsuit weather reduces the crowds, and you are left with long, empty beaches interrupted by the occasional seal or sea lion enjoying a nap on the fine sand. Locals pick up their coffees and walk their dogs and the occasional surfer heads out to enjoy the waves. Multiple wild beaches can be reached with a 20-minute drive from the city, with many more accessible within an hour.
The latest addition to the local lifestyle is a lovely cycle trail around the inner harbour, connecting one side to the other with a scenic ferry crossing. Choose your pub for lunch – there are good options on both sides of the harbour – or take some sandwiches from one of the centre’s excellent cafes.
Multiple shorter walks, some spectacular, some very remote are highly recommended. As are three breweries full of locals and craft beers - an excellent way to understand the local culture.
The Otago Peninsula is world class from a wildlife perspective. An albatross colony on the mainland, spoonbill, plovers, herons, shearwaters, yellow eyed penguins side by side with fur seals and sea lions make this a very rich area. We know a local farming family here with the very best access to one of the finest bays on the peninsula. This experience we rate as truly world class.
The nature sanctuary at Orokonui is led by some bright-eyed very capable locals who are very happy to tailor whatever our clients are interested in. Unlike the busier parts of the country where people are sometimes obliged to select products from lists, this is a place for human beings.
A laid-back local weekend might start with the Saturday food markets to stock your city centre apartment with some goodies, before a harbourside cycle ride, then meet up with a local from our network to visit the three breweries and a local music gig. Sunday could take you up the peninsula or to the ecosanctuary to encounter some wildlife, starting or finishing with a stroll on St Clair beach where the esplanade eatery beckons with promises of coffee, beer, or even a cocktail.
As with all our tailored travel, this is just an example. Once we have an understanding of the individuals travelling, then our network swings into action and we start creating custom experiences. This is the power of going local.
If this description has captured your imagination, get in touch with the team at [email protected] to discuss your next trip.